Fenty Beauty: How make-up helped Rihanna become a billionaire
When Rihanna released her single …Better Have My Money in 2015, you might have thought she was talking about royalties from No.1 hits like We Found Love or Diamonds.
But it’s the income she makes from her Fenty Beauty cosmetics company that was largely responsible for her officially becoming a billionaire last week.
Rihanna, 33, launched Fenty Beauty in 2017 in a partnership with luxury goods company LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton).
Radio 1 Newsbeat has been speaking to beauty experts to find out the secrets to Fenty’s massive success.
‘Diversity with no barriers up’
Rihanna said the aim of Fenty was to appeal to “every type of woman” with “all skin tones”.
“In every product I was like: ‘There needs to be something for a dark-skinned girl; there needs to be something for a really pale girl; there needs to be something in-between,'” she told Refinery29 in 2017.
That commitment is what stands out for beauty writer Jessica Morgan.
“Rihanna’s approached diversity with no barriers up. She ensured there were plenty of ranges across the board that were accessible to everyone,” the 28-year-old says.
IMAGE SOURCE,GETTY IMAGES
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Rihanna said: “So you want people to appreciate the product and not feel like: ‘Oh that’s cute, but it only looks good on her'”
Fenty foundation is now offered in 50 shades and has led to the so-called “Fenty effect” where rival brands broadened their shade ranges for make-up products.
Jessica uses foundation from the range, and says though it shouldn’t have felt like it at the time, it was “revolutionary” when it launched in 2017.
“I was able to find the exact shade match to my skin, which has been the bane of my life since I was born,” she says.
“There are other brands who have championed diversity, but this was something fresh that Fenty really brought on.”
IMAGE SOURCE,INSTAGRAM/JESSICA MORGAN
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For Jessica, the launch of Fenty Beauty’s foundation range meant it became easier to find one that suited her
It wasn’t just about the darker shades either.
“I remember some of my friends who were super pale growing up and their foundation always had an orange hue,” says Chinazo Ufodiama, who hosts the Unpretty podcast.
“[Rihanna] was like: ‘Hey pale sisters, I’ve got you too.'”
Fenty was one of the first brands not to market their make-up exclusively to women too.
“The whole idea of not targeting beauty and fragrance to a particular gender has really taken off,” beauty journalist Amber Graffland says.
“The old-fashioned idea of a beauty hall for affluent women of a certain age is dead and buried.”
The rise and rise of Fenty Beauty
Rihanna is worth $1.7bn (£1.2bn), with an estimated $1.4bn coming from the value of Fenty Beauty.
Forbes – the business magazine that announced she’d become a billionaire – says she owns 50% of the cosmetics company.
The star launched Fenty Beauty in 1,600 stores across 17 countries in 2017.
The company reportedly made $100m (£72m) in its first 40 days.
It makes more money than other celebrity-founded beauty brands such as Kylie Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics, Kim Kardashian’s KKW Beauty and Jessica Alba’s Honest Company, Forbes says.
The rest of Rihanna’s fortune mostly comes from her stake in her lingerie company, Savage X Fenty, worth an estimated $270m (£194m), and her earnings from music and acting.
Jessica, who lives in London, was at one of Fenty’s UK launches at the Harvey Nichols luxury department store.
She says at the time people felt it might be an exclusive brand. And while Fenty’s not the cheapest make-up on the shelves, it is available in high-street shops such as Boots.
This is one of its main selling points for Jessica.
She used to live in Southend and says, with “limited shades” to match her skin, finding the right foundation often involved long trips to department stores in London.
But Fenty wasn’t the first brand to offer a range of darker shades.
“It’s not new, to be honest. When it launched I didn’t feel like ‘oh finally’ at all”, Chinazo says.
“I’d already found my foundation – I’m very much married to Bobbi Brown.”
But Chinazo, who’s from Wakefield but lives in Hackney, admits having a brand with more shades to offer is definitely more convenient.
“Not having to have that experience of going to a department store’s beauty hall and trying every single brand to try and find your perfect shade – that’s almost taken away by the fact that you can just go to the Fenty counter.”
IMAGE SOURCE,GETTY IMAGES
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“What made it so revolutionary is the fact you can get luxury products at high street prices.”
Cruelty-free ethics
Fenty’s website states it’s a cruelty-free brand that doesn’t test products or ingredients on animals.
Amber says it “really has led the way”, showing up bigger brands as “out of touch” for not acting sooner.
“Consumers are more savvy and knowledgeable than ever. They shop around and only put their money where their heart is – and it’s clearly in cruelty-free, diverse, inclusive brands,” she says.
Jessica adds that the cruelty-free label is a great marketing strategy because it keeps it out of the limelight for controversy-loving social media users.
“Being in 2021, there’s no excuse to not have all those ethical elements in your products.”
‘It feels like you’re part of a gang’
Fenty’s social media strategy also makes it stand out from the crowd, Chinazo says.
“It almost reminds me of the days where I was getting ready with my girls before a night out and we were passing around make-up – that’s how it feels when you’re scrolling through that Instagram feed.”
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Amber agrees Fenty’s social media game has made it shine.
“Fenty was the first brand to really rip up the rule book and talk to a generation in the way they wanted to be spoken to.”
The Rihanna factor
It’s hard to discount the star power of Rihanna in making Fenty a business phenomenon.
While many fans have been waiting eagerly since 2016 for new music, a quick look at her Instagram page with 103 million followers shows more Fenty than music.
“I think what people really love about her is the connection to the brand. You can see she uses and speaks about the products in a really authentic way,” says Jessica.
“Jephte Bastien: Crafting Cinema, Challenging Norms, and Championing Authentic Stories”
Jephte Bastien, a multifaceted director, producer, creator, and editor, has carved a unique path in the film industry. From his humble beginnings in Haiti to his groundbreaking work in cinema, Jephte’s journey is a testament to resilience, creativity, and an unyielding passion for storytelling. In a recent interview, Jephte shared insights into his life, inspirations, and the challenges he has faced as a filmmaker.
Jephte’s love for storytelling began in his childhood. Growing up in Haiti, he would cut out paper silhouettes, align them with thread, and use a flashlight to project characters onto a makeshift screen. This early form of shadow puppetry allowed him to mimic voices and create stories, laying the foundation for his future in filmmaking. Music also played a significant role in his upbringing. As the seventh of nine boys in a large Christian family, Jephte started singing in church at the age of five. His family’s tradition of entertaining one another—through poetry, singing, and dancing—fostered his creative spirit.
Haiti: A Source of Inspiration
Haiti holds a special place in Jephte’s heart. Despite the media’s often negative portrayal of the country, Jephte describes it as a paradise filled with vibrant culture, music, and natural beauty. His early memories of Haiti are filled with joy—playing games, eating mangoes straight from the trees, and forming lifelong friendships. When his family moved to Canada, Jephte struggled with homesickness and depression. Haiti became a recurring theme in his dreams, a place he would revisit mentally to find solace and inspiration. Even as an adult, he traveled back to Haiti frequently, using the trips to rejuvenate his creative energy.
The Church and Early Questions
Growing up in a religious household, Jephte was deeply involved in the church. However, he began to question the narratives he was taught, particularly the lack of representation of Black people in religious imagery. These early questions about identity and representation would later influence his work as a filmmaker. Jephte’s departure from the church was not a rejection of faith but a search for truth and authenticity in storytelling.
A Journey to New York and Beyond
Jephte’s pursuit of his passion led him to New York in the 1990s, where he studied theater despite his parents’ wishes for him to become a lawyer. This decision marked the beginning of his independent journey. He worked tirelessly to pay for his education, immersing himself in the arts and honing his craft. After returning to Montreal, Jephte faced the harsh realities of the film industry. Despite his talent, opportunities were scarce, especially for a Black filmmaker in the 90s. Determined to tell his own stories, Jephte enrolled in film school, where he began to develop his unique voice.
Breaking Barriers in Filmmaking
Jephte’s career is marked by a series of groundbreaking projects. One of his early successes was editing a music video for the song “Due to the Interest” by Garou. Despite the director’s inexperience, Jephte stepped in to manage the set, ensuring the project’s success. The video became a buzz clip, earning praise from industry heavyweights like Luc Plamondon. However, Jephte’s refusal to accept a $2,000 bonus from the director highlighted his commitment to integrity over financial gain.
In 2003, Jephte produced “Haiti Through My Eye,” a docu-series that showcased Haiti’s rich culture and history. The project was a critical success and opened doors for future opportunities, including funding for his feature film “Exit 67.” Despite the challenges of securing funding and navigating the industry’s systemic barriers, Jephte remained steadfast in his mission to tell authentic stories.
The Draft: A Powerful Vision
One of Jephte’s most ambitious projects is “The Draft,” a film about a young Black hockey player whose dreams are shattered by a brutal act of racism. The story follows his journey as he mentors his younger brother, offering a new paradigm for success. Jephte describes “The Draft” as the most powerful film he has ever written, a project that challenges the status quo and highlights the resilience of marginalized communities.
However, the production of “The Draft” was not without its challenges. Jephte faced significant obstacles, including interference from unions and a lack of support from industry institutions, except Telefilm and Harold Greenberg Fund, who supported the project from the beginning. Despite these hurdles, he remained committed to the project, pouring his own resources and energy into bringing his vision to life.
The Struggles of an Independent Filmmaker
Jephte’s experiences shed light on the difficulties faced by independent filmmakers, particularly those from underrepresented communities. In Canada, the film industry is heavily reliant on government funding, which often comes with strict quotas and limitations. Jephte has faced numerous rejections and setbacks, including being blacklisted by medias after an interview. Despite these challenges, he continues to create, driven by his passion for storytelling and his desire to challenge societal norms.
A Legacy of Resilience
Jephte Bastien’s journey is a testament to the power of perseverance and creativity. From his early days in Haiti to his groundbreaking work in film, he has remained true to his vision, using his art to challenge stereotypes and inspire change. As he continues to work on “The Draft” and other projects, Jephte’s legacy serves as a reminder of the importance of representation and the enduring power of storytelling.
The music industry has undergone significant transformations over the past few decades, reshaped by technological advancements, changing consumer behaviors, and evolving revenue models. Today, the music business is more dynamic and complex than ever, offering both challenges and opportunities for artists, labels, and stakeholders.
Streaming: The Dominant Force
The rise of streaming services such as Spotify, Apple Music, and Amazon Music has revolutionized how people consume music. Streaming now accounts for the majority of global music revenue, surpassing physical sales and digital downloads. This shift has democratized access to music, allowing fans to discover and enjoy a vast array of genres and artists with ease. Urban artists like Drake and The Weeknd have leveraged streaming platforms to reach global audiences and achieve mainstream success. However, it has also raised questions about fair compensation for artists, as the revenue generated per stream is often minimal compared to traditional sales.
The Role of Social Media and Viral Trends
Social media platforms like TikTok, Instagram, and YouTube have become crucial for music discovery and promotion. Viral challenges and trends can propel songs to global stardom overnight, as seen with Cardi B and Megan Thee Stallion’s “WAP,” which gained immense popularity through social media engagement and challenges. Similarly, artists like SZA have used social media to engage with fans and create viral hits that dominate charts worldwide. This has empowered independent artists, giving them a platform to reach audiences without the backing of major labels. However, the reliance on virality also means that the music landscape can be unpredictable, with trends shifting rapidly.
The Resurgence of Vinyl and Physical Formats
Despite the dominance of digital music, vinyl records have experienced a remarkable resurgence. Many music enthusiasts appreciate the tangible, nostalgic experience that vinyl offers, driving its sales to the highest levels in decades. Urban artists such as Kendrick Lamar and Tyler, the Creator have capitalized on this trend by releasing special edition vinyl records, which have become coveted collector’s items. This trend highlights a desire for physical connection in an increasingly digital world and presents a niche market that artists and labels are eager to tap into.
The Evolving Role of Record Labels
Record labels continue to play a vital role in the music ecosystem, but their influence is evolving. While major labels offer resources and connections that can catapult artists to success, more musicians are opting for independent routes or signing with smaller, boutique labels that offer more creative freedom. Chance the Rapper, for example, has achieved significant success as an independent artist, retaining full control over his music and distribution. This shift has led to more diverse and unique music entering the mainstream, enriching the industry as a whole.
Challenges and Opportunities in Live Music
The COVID-19 pandemic dealt a significant blow to the live music sector, with concerts and festivals worldwide canceled or postponed. However, this period also saw innovation, with artists and promoters exploring virtual concerts and live-streaming events. Travis Scott’s virtual concert within the video game Fortnite attracted millions of viewers, showcasing the potential for digital experiences in the live music space. As live music returns, there is an opportunity to blend in-person experiences with digital enhancements, offering fans new ways to connect with their favorite artists.
Looking Ahead: Technology and Innovation
The future of the music business is likely to be shaped by emerging technologies such as artificial intelligence, blockchain, and virtual reality. AI can assist in music production and personalized recommendations, while blockchain offers potential for transparent and efficient royalty distribution. Virtual reality and augmented reality experiences could redefine live music events, providing immersive and interactive experiences for fans. Urban artists like A$AP Rocky have already experimented with innovative digital experiences, creating unique ways to engage with their audience.
In conclusion, the music business today is a landscape of rapid change and innovation. While challenges such as fair compensation and market saturation remain, the industry is also ripe with opportunities for those willing to adapt and explore new possibilities. As technology continues to evolve, the music industry will undoubtedly continue to transform, creating exciting prospects for artists, fans, and businesses alike.
From a handful of Lil Baby concert stops to large events like the Made in America festival, rap concerts have been getting canceled quite frequently in recent years.
Nicki Minaj’s NICKIHNDRXX Tour — canceled in North America. Chance the Rapper’s Big Day Tour — canceled everywhere. T-Pain’s 1UP DLC Tour — canceled. Cardi B’s Invasion of Privacy Tour— chose not to do one.
Touring’s traditional model needs work. Cancellations have happened for years, but this recent wave is different. Many hip-hop artists overestimate demand for ticket sales. We live in an era with endless data, but touring decisions still seem like the industry blindly throws darts. Meanwhile, artists who can sell out those same venues have proudly taken new approaches. These trends are connected.
The popularity of music festivals and concert residencies have added new variables to the live performance mix. Mainstream artists are on a quest to maximize each option. Some are farther along than others. But by the time the majority of rappers find the ideal balance, the touring business might be behind the curve.
Opportunity cost is higher than ever
When artists are on tour, they’re on the road day-in, day-out. It’s traditionally seen as a justifiable tradeoff since many artists earn a majority of their revenue from touring. But it’s still time-intensive, laborious, and costly.
A few years ago, Beyoncé, like Drake, once played it safe with concert tours. In 2013 and 2014, The Mrs. Carter World Tour earned an impressive $230 million, but it took Queen Bey 132 shows and twelve months of touring to do so…
Had Beyoncé subjected herself to the same arenas for [On the Run Tour, The Formation World Tour, and On The Run II Tour], she would have needed to perform an additional 207 shows since 2014 to match the $565 million her concerts have grossed in revenue. It would have been impossible to do all those shows while pregnant with the twins, make Lemonade, and do all the other stuff Beyoncé does.
There’s only a handful of artists like Beyonce who can justify the jump to a stadium. For the rest, festivals and short-term Las Vegas residencies are a viable alternative.
But even Taylor Swift has moved on from stadium tours. This summer the 1989 singer will do a European festival run (like Cardi B did last summer), then launch her own festival, Lover Fest, in Boston and Los Angeles. It doesn’t get more 2020 than that.
“I’m not quite sure what we’re doing with touring. I don’t want to do the same thing every time because I don’t want my life to feel like I’m on a treadmill. There’s a lot that goes into touring that nobody knows about — like you have to reserve stadiums like a year and a half in advance, and that to me is a lot. With ‘Reputation,’ I knew that nobody would really fully understand the album until they saw it live, but this album is different because people are seeming to get it on the first listen.”
All that’s true, but let’s remember two things. First, Taylor is in a select group of artists who can sell out the Rose Bowl, Soldier Field, and MetLife Stadium on back-to-back nights. She wouldn’t forgo that opportunity unless it made financial sense. Second, she’s right about the challenge in reserving venues eighteen months in advance. It’s especially frustrating for those who rise quickly and can’t easily pivot. It’s a good problem to have, sure. But it’s still a problem.
Last year, Lizzo rose to stardom so fast that she outpaced her touring revenue. According to Billboard, last spring’s Cuz I Love You Tour was performed in front of crowds of less than 2,000 people, grossing just over $50,000 per night. To capitalize on her momentum, she came back in the fall with the Cuz I Love You Too Tour at venues that were twice the capacity. But by that point “Truth Hurts” was #1 on the charts and nominated for Grammys. She still couldn’t keep up.
My wife and her friends bought tickets for Lizzo’s October show in San Francisco. They bought tickets at face value back in May for $50. The week before her show they were selling on StubHub for $350! It was a scalper’s dream but an artist’s biggest frustration. All the value was captured by the secondary market. Sure, there’s a chance Lizzo pulled a Metallica-Live Nation and scalped her own tickets. But if that ever happened… whew buddy. The Lizzo hive (and the anti-Lizzo hive) would have burned the internet down by now.
Hip-hop has an uphill battle
The mentality required to succeed in hip-hop and touring is in direct conflict. Most mainstream rappers take pride in beating the odds. They had to bet on themselves to make it this far. Why stop now?
But touring requires far more pragmatism. It’s economics. When supply meets demand, everyone’s happy. Those economics can be especially challenging for hip-hop though, where its streaming popularity outweighs its touring performance.
In a 2018 Wall Street Journal article, Neil Shah broke down how hip-hop may rule the record industry, rock is still king on the road:
There are many reasons that rock remains so powerful on the road, including that, as an older genre, it had a head start on pop and rap. Giant tours by older rap icons like Jay-Z aren’t as common. Fans of newer hip-hop artists skew younger, including teens with less disposable cash, making festival gigs more economical than lengthy, sprawling tours.
“Drake can do four Madison Square Garden shows, but Phish can do 17,” says Peter Shapiro, a New York-based independent concert promoter. Especially in the day-to-day business of clubs and theaters, rock bands, he adds, “still have a huge impact.”
This can make it mistakenly easy for an artist who dominates on RapCaviar or SoundCloud charts to think they are ready for the biggest stages available. Of the top 10 global tours of 2019, none of them were hip-hop. In 2018, just one (Beyonce and Jay Z’s On The Run II). Genre plays a factor.
A good clip from The Joe Budden Podcast where they break down Chance’s canceled tour.
Artists bet on themselves, which is costly
Challenges arise when artists who were once the hot kid start to cool off and need to accept reality. They might not be DONE done, but their prime days are behind them.
That’s where Nicki Minaj and Chance the Rapper are at. Neither admitted that low demand drove their cancellations, but we can follow T-Pain’s humble advice and read between the lines. Several industry insiders believe that both Nicki and Chance couldn’t sell enough tickets to fill 25+ arenas across the US. (I also covered Nicki’s ticketing woes in the Globalization of Hip-Hop, Part I and Chance the Rapper’s in a recent Member Update.)
When both rappers first announced these tours, I thought to myself, “Who the hell gassed them up to think they can still command an arena tour? Who signed this off?” There are plenty of fingers to point, but honestly, neither rapper needed extra convincing.
Keep in mind, Nicki spent the past decade silencing doubters who never thought a female rapper could reach the heights she did. Chance proved the industry wrong as an indie rapper who won Grammys and did arena tours. Their brand is to stay resilient when projections told them otherwise. You wanna go back in time and try to convince them that the lackluster responses to “Chun-Li” and “Groceries” were signs of what’s to come? Yea, good luck with that.
Their mentality is understandable, but it distorts reality. And as more superstars like Taylor and Cardi consider alternatives to touring, promoters may be stretched to fill those same venues with artists who can’t compete in that weight class. It will inevitably lead to more cancellations.
There are levels to this
The traditional touring model is extremely linear. There are tons of venue options for rising rappers who want to perform for a few hundred or a few thousand people. But the leap to arenas (~15,000) is no joke. The jump up to stadiums (~50,000+) is even steeper. The artists at the in-between stages are more likely to leave money on the table or cancel because they couldn’t sell.
The popularity of festivals, residencies, and private events add more options to meet demand:
As AR/VR capabilities develop, more of them will be added to this mix too
I made a similar chart last year on how the traditional albums model has evolved with “mixtapes,” visual albums, podcasts, and more. The trend is similar here. Increased options lead to more experimentation and put artists in control.
Where is this all heading?
This trend should be top of mind for both Live Nation and AEG, which own and operate thousands of venues. It should also concern those who individually manage their venues.
I don’t expect arenas to shorten the timeline for advance booking or cancellation policies. That’s the nature of events in popular venues, whether it’s a wedding or a Migos concert. But they can lean into the trend by pitching themselves as locations for festivals, residencies, private events, or mixed reality experiences. It may be hard to compete against the machine of Coachella, but Rolling Loud and plenty of other festivals are more open to working with what’s available.
By now, every rapper with a big enough following has had at least wondered, “What if I launched my own Astroworld or OVO Fest? Should I do a Vegas residency too?” As I laid out in Why Rappers Started Running Their Own Music Festivals, artists want to leverage their power and run the show. They want the money from the highest profit margin areas of live performance, like sponsorship and concessions. It’s the same model that Floyd Mayweather uses in his boxing matches. He rents out the building and collects the revenue from everything else.
Touring will always be key for the up and comers who want to meet their day-ones. It worked for Meg the Stallion in the rooftop cypher days and Cardi B in the Love & Hip-Hop days. It will always be a core for the legacy artists who can draw crowds wherever—like Rolling Stones, Elton John, or Jay Z. But there’s a whoooole lot of artists between up-and-comers and Hov.
These artist want more options, and the market can offer them. The rest of the industry will be forced to adapt sooner or later.